Chester chooses chestnuts,
cheddar cheese with chewy chives.
He chews them and he chooses them.
He chooses them and he chews them. . . . . .
those chestnuts, cheddar cheese
and chives in cheery, charming chunks.
- Singin' in the Rain
I never know when something will please my son and when something won't. Homebaked, homemade goods fill him with dread and suspicion, and he jumps to the conclusion that there is something odd and horrid hidden within. Tiny flecks of green or orange convince him that I have secreted vegetables, something healthy, into a cake or bread, any red meat in a stew means fat that must be dissected away, chunks mean the dreaded mushroom. Even a plain chocolate cake if not THE chocolate cake he loves fills him with mistrust, questioning my baking integrity, assuming that I am trying to pull the wool over his eyes and trick him into eating something… weird.
So think of my surprise when he poked his head into the kitchen and asked what I was baking. And think of my shock when he grabbed the loaf of Chive Bread, sliced off a thick chunk and sat down to lunch. And think of my bewilderment and joy when I discovered that he had not only eaten the slice, but had devoured more than half the loaf with his meal. And asked if he could have more.
The grass as bristly and stout as chives and me wondering
when the ground will break and me wondering how anything fragile survives.
- Anne Sexton
My friend and fellow Bread Baking Babe Cathy of Bread Experience, fresh from her lengthy trip to Italy – including attending my and Ilva's own Plated Stories Workshop with the Tuscan Muse – inspired by all things Italian challenged the Babes as this month's Bread Baking Babes hostess to bake Panmarino, an Italian bread baked with fresh rosemary.
Short of that fragrant herb, I decided to add fresh chives to the dough and as it baked the wonderful scent of oniony chives filled our home. The bread was simple to make and baked up perfectly! Wonderful soft, just slightly dense texture and very tasty! The perfect bread for lunch and dinner to accompany almost anything!
And that my persnickety son loved it says so much for how good this bread is! My only disappointment was the smooth crust. Although delicious, I wanted a beautiful crusty, rough, rustic loaf crust but know that it is due to my not having a baking stone or baking steel.
Check out the Panmarino loaves of the other Babes:
Bake My Day – Karen
Bread Baking Babe Bibliothécaire: Thyme for Cooking – Katie
blog from OUR kitchen – Elizabeth
Feeding My Enthusiasms – Elle
girlichef – Heather
Lucullian Delights - Ilva
Living in the Kitchen with Puppies – Natashya
My Kitchen In Half Cups – Tanna
Notitie Van Lien – Lien
My Diverse Kitchen - Aparna
Bread Experience - Cathy
I will be sending this Italian Chive Loaf to Susan of Wild Yeast for her weekly Yeastspotting!
PANMARINO An Italian Rosemary Bread that became a Chive Bread in my kitchen.
Adapted from The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Bread Baking from The French Culinary Institute
Makes 4 small loaves
Note: according to King Arthur Flour pinch of yeast—1/32 to 1/16 teaspoon
5 oz (145 g) bread flour (or all-purpose or white whole wheat)
4 ¼ oz (122 g) warm water
Pinch (about scant 1/8 tsp) dry instant yeast
1 lb 15 oz (885 g) bread flour (or all-purpose or white whole wheat)
1 lb 1 oz (475 g) warm water
1 ½ oz (45 g) warm milk
9 1/3 oz (265 g) biga
¾ oz (23 g) salt
Pinch (about 1/8 tsp) dry instant yeast
3 oz (88 g) olive oil
1/3 oz (9 g) chopped fresh rosemary or chives
My quantities for 2 small loves:
2 ½ oz (72 ½ g) bread flour
2+ oz (61 g) warm water
Small pinch (scant 1/16 tsp) dry instant yeast (I added more than half the quantity)
3 ½ cups (442 g) flour
1 cup (240 g) warm water
2 Tbs (22 g) warm milk
All of the biga
About 3 tsp (11 ½ g) salt
Pinch (about 1/16 tsp) yeast
¼ cup (44 g) olive oil
2 Tbs (4 g) chopped fresh Rosemary or chives
Preparing the Biga:
Combine the bread flour, water and yeast in a large mixing bowl. Stir with a wooden spoon until well blended. Scrape down the edge of the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let it rest at 75° F for 14 to 16 hours (I refrigerated it).
Making the Final Dough:
In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the bread flour, water, milk, and biga. Using the dough hook, mix on low speed until blended. (I did this by hand with a wooden spoon)
Add the salt and yeast and mix on low speed (or by hand) for 5 minutes. Increase the speed to medium and mix for about 7 more minutes, or until the dough is smooth. When the gluten is fully developed, mix in the olive oil and rosemary or chives on low speed. (doing this by hand, I added the olive oil and chopped chives with the salt and yeast and blended in briefly with a hand mixer then continued by hand on a very lightly floured work surface, continuing the kneading for the full 7 minutes or until smooth and elastic)
Lightly oil a large bowl. Scrape the dough into the bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let the dough ferment for 45 minutes. (do not expect the dough to really rise much)
Remove the dough to a lightly floured work surface and divide it into four or two (depending on whether you made dough for 2 or 4 loaves) 16 oz (450 g) pieces. Shape the dough pieces into rounds. Cover with plastic wrap (I covered with a layer of plastic then a clean kitchen towel) and let them bench rest for 15 minutes. Place two couches on a separate work surface or breadboard and dust them with flour. (I have no couches so placed the loaves on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet and separated them by a roll of parchment.) Uncover the dough and, if necessary, lightly flour the work surface. Gently press on the dough to degas (gently punch out the air) and carefully shape each piece into a tight, neat rounds.
Place one loaf on one side of the couche, fold the couche up to make a double layer of cloth to serve as a divider between the loaves, and place a second loaf next to the fold. Repeat the process with the remaining two loaves and the second couche. Cover with plastic wrap and proof for 1 hour. (again, having no couche so I just placed on parchment-lined baking sheets)
About an hour before you plan to bake the loaves, place a baking stone (or tiles) into the oven along with a steam pan (underneath) or iron skillet (on the top rack) and preheat the oven to 450° F (230°C).
Uncover the dough and score the top of each loaf in a star pattern using a lame or sharp knife. This particular formula doesn't say to do this, but you can sprinkle sea salt into the crevices as the original baker did to make it "sparkle with diamonds."
Carefully transfer the loaves to the preheated baking stone using a peel or the back of a baking sheet. To make the steam, add 1 cup of ice to the iron skillet or steam pan.
Bake for 40 minutes, or until the crust is light brown and crisp and the loaves make a hollow sound when tapped on the bottom.
Remove the loaves from the oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool.
These are really best eaten fresh, but as the loaves are both small and delicious, this is quite easy. Extra loaves can be frozen.