Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Panmarino becomes Italian Chive Bread


Chester chooses chestnuts, 
cheddar cheese with chewy chives. 
He chews them and he chooses them. 
He chooses them and he chews them. . . . . .
those chestnuts, cheddar cheese 
and chives in cheery, charming chunks. 
- Singin' in the Rain 

I never know when something will please my son and when something won't. Homebaked, homemade goods fill him with dread and suspicion, and he jumps to the conclusion that there is something odd and horrid hidden within. Tiny flecks of green or orange convince him that I have secreted vegetables, something healthy, into a cake or bread, any red meat in a stew means fat that must be dissected away, chunks mean the dreaded mushroom. Even a plain chocolate cake if not THE chocolate cake he loves fills him with mistrust, questioning my baking integrity, assuming that I am trying to pull the wool over his eyes and trick him into eating something… weird.

So think of my surprise when he poked his head into the kitchen and asked what I was baking. And think of my shock when he grabbed the loaf of Chive Bread, sliced off a thick chunk and sat down to lunch. And think of my bewilderment and joy when I discovered that he had not only eaten the slice, but had devoured more than half the loaf with his meal. And asked if he could have more.

The grass as bristly and stout as chives and me wondering 
when the ground will break and me wondering how anything fragile survives. 
- Anne Sexton 

My friend and fellow Bread Baking Babe Cathy of Bread Experience, fresh from her lengthy trip to Italy – including attending my and Ilva's own Plated Stories Workshop with the Tuscan Muse – inspired by all things Italian challenged the Babes as this month's Bread Baking Babes hostess to bake Panmarino, an Italian bread baked with fresh rosemary

Short of that fragrant herb, I decided to add fresh chives to the dough and as it baked the wonderful scent of oniony chives filled our home. The bread was simple to make and baked up perfectly! Wonderful soft, just slightly dense texture and very tasty! The perfect bread for lunch and dinner to accompany almost anything!

And that my persnickety son loved it says so much for how good this bread is! My only disappointment was the smooth crust. Although delicious, I wanted a beautiful crusty, rough, rustic loaf crust but know that it is due to my not having a baking stone or baking steel.

Check out the Panmarino loaves of the other Babes:

Bake My Day – Karen
Bread Baking Babe Bibliothécaire: Thyme for Cooking РKatie
blog from OUR kitchen – Elizabeth
Feeding My Enthusiasms – Elle
girlichef – Heather
Lucullian Delights - Ilva
Living in the Kitchen with Puppies – Natashya
My Kitchen In Half Cups – Tanna
Notitie Van Lien – Lien
My Diverse Kitchen - Aparna
Bread Experience - Cathy

I will be sending this Italian Chive Loaf to Susan of Wild Yeast for her weekly Yeastspotting

PANMARINO An Italian Rosemary Bread that became a Chive Bread in my kitchen.
Adapted from The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Bread Baking from The French Culinary Institute

Makes 4 small loaves

Note: according to King Arthur Flour pinch of yeast—1/32 to 1/16 teaspoon


5 oz (145 g) bread flour (or all-purpose or white whole wheat)
4 ¼ oz (122 g) warm water
Pinch (about scant 1/8 tsp) dry instant yeast

Final Dough:

1 lb 15 oz (885 g) bread flour (or all-purpose or white whole wheat)
1 lb 1 oz (475 g) warm water
1 ½ oz (45 g) warm milk
9 1/3 oz (265 g) biga
¾ oz (23 g) salt
Pinch (about 1/8 tsp) dry instant yeast
3 oz (88 g) olive oil
1/3 oz (9 g) chopped fresh rosemary or chives

My quantities for 2 small loves:


2 ½ oz (72 ½ g) bread flour
2+ oz (61 g) warm water
Small pinch (scant 1/16 tsp) dry instant yeast (I added more than half the quantity)

Final Dough:

 3 ½ cups (442 g) flour
1 cup (240 g) warm water
2 Tbs (22 g) warm milk
All of the biga
About 3 tsp (11 ½ g) salt
Pinch (about 1/16 tsp) yeast
¼ cup (44 g) olive oil
2 Tbs (4 g) chopped fresh Rosemary or chives

Preparing the Biga:
Combine the bread flour, water and yeast in a large mixing bowl. Stir with a wooden spoon until well blended. Scrape down the edge of the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let it rest at 75° F for 14 to 16 hours (I refrigerated it).

Making the Final Dough:
In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the bread flour, water, milk, and biga. Using the dough hook, mix on low speed until blended. (I did this by hand with a wooden spoon) 

Add the salt and yeast and mix on low speed (or by hand) for 5 minutes. Increase the speed to medium and mix for about 7 more minutes, or until the dough is smooth. When the gluten is fully developed, mix in the olive oil and rosemary or chives on low speed. (doing this by hand, I added the olive oil and chopped chives with the salt and yeast and blended in briefly with a hand mixer then continued by hand on a very lightly floured work surface, continuing the kneading for the full 7 minutes or until smooth and elastic)

Lightly oil a large bowl. Scrape the dough into the bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let the dough ferment for 45 minutes. (do not expect the dough to really rise much)

Remove the dough to a lightly floured work surface and divide it into four or two (depending on whether you made dough for 2 or 4 loaves) 16 oz (450 g) pieces. Shape the dough pieces into rounds. Cover with plastic wrap (I covered with a layer of plastic then a clean kitchen towel) and let them bench rest for 15 minutes. Place two couches on a separate work surface or breadboard and dust them with flour. (I have no couches so placed the loaves on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet and separated them by a roll of parchment.) Uncover the dough and, if necessary, lightly flour the work surface. Gently press on the dough to degas (gently punch out the air) and carefully shape each piece into a tight, neat rounds.

Place one loaf on one side of the couche, fold the couche up to make a double layer of cloth to serve as a divider between the loaves, and place a second loaf next to the fold. Repeat the process with the remaining two loaves and the second couche. Cover with plastic wrap and proof for 1 hour. (again, having no couche so I just placed on parchment-lined baking sheets)

About an hour before you plan to bake the loaves, place a baking stone (or tiles) into the oven along with a steam pan (underneath) or iron skillet (on the top rack) and preheat the oven to 450° F (230°C).

Uncover the dough and score the top of each loaf in a star pattern using a lame or sharp knife. This particular formula doesn't say to do this, but you can sprinkle sea salt into the crevices as the original baker did to make it "sparkle with diamonds."

Carefully transfer the loaves to the preheated baking stone using a peel or the back of a baking sheet. To make the steam, add 1 cup of ice to the iron skillet or steam pan. 

Bake for 40 minutes, or until the crust is light brown and crisp and the loaves make a hollow sound when tapped on the bottom.

Remove the loaves from the oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool.

These are really best eaten fresh, but as the loaves are both small and delicious, this is quite easy. Extra loaves can be frozen.


Lien said...

O those boys... I recognise that in ours too, picking through a sauce to find hidden things. Glad to know you have winner for him here. That oniony smell you describe makes my mouth water.

Lien said...

O those boys... I recognise that in ours too, picking through a sauce to find hidden things. Glad to know you have winner for him here. That oniony smell you describe makes my mouth water.

MyKitchenInHalfCups said...

Gad boys are what's weird ... except they all seem to be alike in this search for the strange in their food.
I understand you wanting the rustic crust but the smooth is beautiful too. What does confuse me is how can we be so different? More than the stone, might it be the heat. Hard to say. That's really why it would be so cool to all be in some big kitchen with the same flours and baking in the same oven conditions. Then would we see all this variety.
Chives are so gorgeous.

Rosa's Yummy Yums said...

A beautiful loaf and great flavors! I'll have a few slices with salt and butter, please... ;-)



Milk and Honey said...

I have the other problem. My sons devour everything I bake as it comes out of the oven. But I'm not surprised your son had no hesitation in carving himself a slice of this delicious looking loaf.

Elizabeth said...

I love that your bread was devoured! Congratulations!

It's beautiful bread, too! I'm suitably envious of your nicely defined star.

Chives!! How brilliant are you to use them as a substitute? I love chives almost as much as I do rosemary!

Our measly little plant didn't yield quite enough rosemary and we have plenty of chives in the garden. I could have had my cake and eaten it too instead of ending up with "hint-o-rosemary" bread.

Elle said...

Always a blessing when the boys love the bread! Chives sounds like a great addition instead of rosemary.I think your crust looks great.

Alison Fauls said...

Your son and my own 18 year old must have been separated at birth. I couldn’t help but chuckle at your description which mirror my own life in the kitchen. Glad to know that change is possible.

Maureen | Orgasmic Chef said...

I love chive bread but I don't think I've ever made one as pretty as this. Be glad you have boys around to feed. :)

It's no wonder they liked this bread!

Rambling Tart said...

What a thrill to discover something your son likes! :-) It does sound absolutely marvelous. :-)

Cathy W. said...

Jamie, your loaves are beautiful! I bet the addition of chives was really good. I'm so glad your son enjoyed this bread. My sons are like that too. Boys!

Katie Zeller said...

Oh yes, I can relate to that.... Mine wouldn't eat potatoes in any shape or form, as well as many other things. He outgrew some of it when he started cooking himself. I love chives in bread - mild, oniony scent

Karen Kerr said...

I love the idea of chives! Your bread looks beautiful and I'm so glad your son loved it even with the green stuff in there. =)

Cathy at Wives with Knives said...

What a beautiful loaf, Jamie. I had to laugh when you described your son. I have seen my children examine something new I've made and I know they are looking for some suspicious foreign matter in the dish. Sometimes they find something, usually they don't.

Kitchen Riffs said...

I ate almost everything when I was young. Well, didn't like liver, but I never had it properly prepared. Cut thick (rather than thin as a shoe sole) and pink on the inside and it's delish. This has nothing to do with bread, of course! My mom never made homemade (although she made a mean stollen at Christmas), but when I was a teen I actually made bread a few times. Now we make all of our own bread. Need to add this recipe to our collection -- this is wonderful. Thanks.

Jill@MadAboutMacarons said...

That loaf looks amazing and can just imagine the aroma in your kitchen, Jamie. Too funny about the hidden surprises lurking in home baked goods for the suspicious!


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